Shifting The Thrifting Mindset: Addressing Consumption
Written by: Rebekah Stokes, Communications Assistant @Threading Change
October 9, 2024
[5-minute read]
The Thrifter’s High
If you’re a thrifter, you’ve experienced it. That sensational feeling of pride and excitement when you’ve sorted through the entire t-shirt rack at the thrift store and finally find that one perfect shirt.
Or if not perfect… at least in your size. Or a colour you’ve often considered wearing. Or good enough to justify all the time you spent sorting through that t-shirt rack. Good enough to buy it, because, hey, it’s cheap and thrifting is good for the planet. Now onto pants.
Photo Courtesy of Becca McHaffie
Thrifting for Circularity
Thrifting is an amazing resource to reduce waste and make our consumption more circular - by keeping clothes in circulation, it bypasses the take make waste structure of our typical linear consumption model. Its benefits can be sabotaged, however, when we don’t address underlying overconsumption and simply transfer our ingrained consumption habits over to the secondhand model.
Can’t Buy Me… Out of the Climate Crisis
Ayesha Barenblat from Remake explains there is a common misconception that we can “buy our way out” of the climate crisis. We may unconsciously feel that as long as we shop at ethical brands or from secondhand establishments, we can continue our same consumption patterns. We see influencers bringing home their massive thrift hauls and celebrating their ‘finds’ in a manner alarmingly reminiscent of more typical fashion influencers with their fast fashion hauls. We are then inspired to go out and do the same, searching tirelessly for those epic finds
Less is More
Indeed, sometimes in our search for sustainability, it may be that we even consume more. Every day we seem to learn about the negative impact of another ‘unsustainable’ product that we own and discover the next best ‘sustainable’ product. For example, when we learned of the negative impact of single-use plastic straws, there was a huge movement to eliminate them. This was a positive step, people around the world identified the problematic nature of single-use plastics and took specific action on this product. The problem lies in the fact that in many cases, we replaced plastic straws with so-called “sustainable” paper straws, whose production is also resource-heavy, and while the straws may biodegrade faster, these products still often don’t have a viable end-of-life strategy that protects the environment from the harmful chemicals present in the paper.
One could argue that secondhand shopping sidesteps the issue of overproduction. The clothes are already made, the environmental impact has occurred, and by buying that secondhand t-shirt, we’re simply keeping it out of a landfill. With the vast supply (fueled by fast fashion), each purchase extends the life of a garment that would otherwise go to waste.
This is true to a point. Purchasing secondhand supports the circular economy and moves away from the wasteful mindset ingrained in our consumption habits. Plus, the carbon footprint of a secondhand item is far smaller than buying new.
However, the flood of fast fashion means much of what fills thrift stores is cheaply made, low-quality clothing, never intended to last more than a few wears. That t-shirt, while repurposed temporarily, is likely to end up in a landfill before long.
Old Habits Die Hard
Our consumption habits are shaped by a complex mix of psychological and social influences. That rush of dopamine you get just before buying that new top can be as addictive as any drug. And social pressure? It's right there in the palm of your hand. With endless feeds promoting new trends and must-haves, it's easy to feel compelled to keep consuming.
However, once we recognize how these forces manipulate our behavior, we can begin to reclaim control and shift our mindset. People are already waking up to this, using one of overconsumption’s most powerful tools—social media—to fight back. Enter the latest TikTok trend: "underconsumption core," a movement that embraces minimalism and intentionally buying less. It's a direct challenge to the influencer culture that often promotes mindless shopping, urging viewers to "buy, buy, buy."
Photo Courtesy of Sam Lion
Buy Less, Wear More
Natalia Trevino Amaro, designer and slow fashion advocate told Vogue, “To me, ‘underconsumption core’ means making use of what you already own, not buying into every trend you see on social media and living with a sustainability mindset”. Some have argued that this so-called under-consumption is actually just what regular or normal consumption looks like, when not supercharged by endless trends and limitless cheap options. It is a pushback against the overconsumption mindset and a recognition of the need for a mindset shift.
This trend is not unique, for years there have been campaigns to not only shift consumption but increase our use of the products we already own. #30wears, initiated by Olivia Firth of EcoAge, challenges participants to wear each garment in their closet at least thirty times. This may not seem substantial, but research shows the average garment is only worn seven to ten times before it is thrown out. This challenge is meant to provoke this same consumption awareness and prompt us to go a step further and each time we shop, ask ourselves, “Will I wear this thirty times?”. Likewise, Remake’s #NoNewClothes challenge asks us to see how long we can go without buying new clothes.
No Perfect Solutions
There are no perfect solutions for sustainability, and none that allow us to maintain the convenience and overconsumption of our past. We can't "buy our way out" of the climate crisis. What we can do is think critically about how we consume, making conscious choices to shop only when necessary and from ethical or sustainable sources, like thrift stores.
Thrifting is a fantastic way to keep garments in circulation and provide options when we truly need something. However, like any tool, it loses its effectiveness when overused. The key to preserving the value of thrifting lies in our mindset. Shop with intention, choose carefully, and make each purchase a long-term investment in building a more sustainable future.
Edited by: Luiza Giocondo Teixeira, Communications & Engagement Director @Threading Change
References
Sparkman, L. (2024, February 14). Unraveling the impact of thrifting. Earth Day. https://www.earthday.org/unraveling-the-impact-of-thrifting/
Guardian News and Media. (2024, August 7). “it is OK to be content with your simple life”: Is “underconsumption core” the answer to too much shopping? The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/article/2024/aug/07/it-is-ok-to-be-content-with-your-simple-life-is-underconsumption-core-the-answer-to-too-much-shopping#:~:text=Also%20called%20normal%20core%20or,things%20they%20don’t%20need.
Cristian, R. (2021, January 17). Ayesha Barenblat on Remake & Youth Involvement in Sustainable Fashion. SUSTAIN THE MAG. https://www.sustainthemag.com/style/ayesha-barenblat-on-remake-and-youth-involvement-in-sustainable-fashion
Hirschlag, A. (2023, November 7). Plastic or paper? The truth about drinking straws. BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20231103-plastic-or-paper-the-truth-about-drinking-straws
Knutson B, Rick S, Wimmer GE, Prelec D, Loewenstein G. Neural predictors of purchases. Neuron. 2007 Jan 4;53(1):147-56. doi: 10.1016/j.neuron.2006.11.010. PMID: 17196537; PMCID: PMC1876732.
About the author:
Rebekah Stokes
Rebekah is a Global Development student, passionate about creating real-world solutions to complex issues. She advocates for pivoting current systems towards a more just and sustainable future. She’s applied her knowledge and skills in various projects, such as in urban planning on Granville Island, circular economy, and local outreach initiatives. Her passion for fashion was born out of a love for its storytelling capability and through her work in the sustainable fashion sphere, she seeks to advocate for more stories of justice and equity in the clothes we wear.
