Second-hand September: How The Gikomba Market Keeps Fashion Circular
Written by: Chemitei Janet, Africa Regional Manager @Threading Change
10 September 2024
[4-minute read]
Wearing second-hand clothes is not something new, but it should be celebrated every day.
Since 2019, Oxfam has championed Secondhand September, encouraging consumers to say no to new clothes for the entire month, and inspiring global action for the planet's well-being.
As a Kenyan, shopping second-hand is our go-to since we are one of the largest consumers of second-hand clothes.
“Kenya imported 177,664 tonnes of used clothing in 2022 alone, with top sources being China, the USA, Canada, the UK, and some EU countries.”
How did Kenya end up receiving used textiles? It started as a way to provide clothes for the poor, and refugees. At that time the quality of clothes was unmatched, increasing the demand and ultimately paving the way for a huge resale industry.
In Swahili, we refer to second-hand clothes as ‘mitumba’, which translates to “bales” referring to the way they are packaged for resale. Market liberalization in the 1980s, which involved removing trade barriers and lowering costs, made mitumba more affordable and contributed to the decline of the local textile industry.
By the mid-1990s, mitumba was more sought after than locally produced clothes. Despite government efforts to reverse this trend and revive the local textile industry through bans, significant progress has yet to be made.
Clothing donations
Originally, clothes were donated to charity shops, but when the volume exceeded local demand, the excess garments were sold to textile recycling companies. These companies sort, grade, and package clothes into bales for export to countries like Kenya.
The global second-hand clothing trade is presented as part of a circular economy, keeping clothes in circulation for longer to create an environmental management system and keep them away from landfills, while also providing much-needed jobs.
Gikomba Market
The Gikomba market can be described as the epicenter of second-hand clothing redistribution in Kenya. It is a maze of makeshift stalls, corrugated iron roofs, and narrow pathways that pulse with life. As you step in, you’re immediately met by the loud voices of sellers who hope to convince you to buy from them. Navigating the market requires caution as you have to be mindful not to be whisked away by the numerous middlemen who try to lure you to stalls where clothes are often overpriced and of questionable quality.
Here, fashion finds a second life. The market is always buzzing with shoppers moving in waves as they rummage through heaps of clothing to find their perfect match. Either for their own closets, or for resale in their shops and online stores.
“Throughout the market, the rhythmic thud of sewing machines can be heard, as tailors breathe new life into clothes that were almost discarded. ”
The people of Gikomba are diverse; they are tailors, ironers, traders, business people, and thrifters alike, each contributing to this reuse ecosystem.
Amid the market, you will find heaps of discarded offcuts on the floor - evidence of alterations and upcycling. Some parts of the market resemble a patchwork carpet of fabric scraps, each telling the story of garments once too large, torn, or stained that have now been transformed into something wearable once again.
Each time I go to the market, I come across clothes with tags from charity shops like Goodwill and even Oxfam. So more often than not, what doesn't sell in these global north shops is considered for resale somewhere else.
So, how do you practice love and care for your clothes beyond this intentional month?
Wear what you already own!
You’ve probably heard that the most sustainable clothing is the one you already own. Second-hand clothes take this a step further by allowing us to buy and wear pre-loved items. This month reminds us that having style doesn’t mean buying new or fast fashion - there is beauty in owning and cherishing used items.
Show love to your clothes too! Just because your shirt’s button is missing doesn’t mean it’s time to let go. Imperfections in our clothes mean they need your attention just a little bit more. You can learn to mend your clothes to extend their life, or take them to a tailor who will repair them for a fee. As a child, my parents taught us how to sew using a needle and thread. Even now, my dad continues to show love to our clothes. I get so much joy from some memories where he would ask me to help him get the thread through the needle's eye so he could mend a tear on my little brother’s shirt
Thrift and buy second-hand
The fashion industry continues to overproduce, leading to a surplus of clothes that often end up being donated. Buying second-hand is a powerful way to keep garments in use, reducing the amount that ends up in landfills and waterways.
I asked my Instagram followers what clothes mean to them, and why they buy second-hand. Most of the responses said clothes are a form of expression and that they buy second-hand because it’s cheap and they can get their hands on quality clothes.
As much as mitumba reminds us of over-consumerism in the fashion industry, it also gives us an opportunity to buy and use what is already here with us. It unites us in the quest for demanding a better fashion future; to dress for the world we want to see.
Renting, handing down, and swapping clothes
I have fond memories of sharing clothes with my siblings, once we outgrew them and couldn’t fit into them anymore, they were gifted to my aunties who were starting families of their own.
Now in my late twenties, I find myself in the company of other slow fashion enthusiasts at clothing swap events. These gatherings are a fun and cost-effective way to refresh your wardrobe while making new friends.
I recently met Mirriam at an upcycling event , and her style caught my eye. We chatted about her outfit, her love for second-hand fashion, and the oldest item in her wardrobe.
“I still wear my mum’s blouse, it has the most amazing pattern that’s hard to find today, and the fabric is incredible!” ”
Support sustainable brands
Clothing reuse has long been a practice in many communities around the world. We have been making quilts from old clothes and curtains because waste wasn’t an option—until most recently, when disposable culture became rampant.
Fortunately, Kenya is home to many sustainable fashion businesses that upcycle mitumba and used clothes into new products. I’m a huge fan of Rummage Studio, an upcycling brand that creates stylish bags from mitumba sourced at Gikomba Market.
This shade of green is my favorite color, and my Rummage bag used to be an oversized jacket!
Ramissa Beauty from Waste is another brand I love. They source used textiles from the market and buy factory offcuts to make their home decor products like tote bags, duvets, tablecloths, and rugs.
Conclusion
The versatility of second-hand clothes is incredible, and if I’m being honest, it’s a reminder that we don’t need to burden our environment with excessive and unnecessary clothes.
By choosing to buy and wear second-hand clothes, we send a clear message to the fashion industry: we're committed to sustainability and demand that they reduce production and design with circularity in mind.
Edited by: Luiza Giocondo Teixeira, Communications & Engagement Director @Threading Change
About the Author
Chemitei Janet
Chemitei (she/her) is an environmentalist and slow fashion educator who enjoys storytelling through writing and content creation. She has experience working in environmental education as a trainer in sustainable waste management; working with different initiatives to engage primary school children on how to upcycle waste to art, and empowering the local community youth groups in Nairobi on climate justice and advocacy.
She currently leads Threading Change’s African regional work. Chemitei dedicates a lot of her time to highlighting the reality of the fashion industry in Kenya and urges everyone to be mindful of their clothing habits. She aims to share African stories and encourage youth development through creative innovation in sustainability and fashion.
