The Cost of Style: Fashion's Hidden Victims Across History and Today
Written by Sara McQuaid, Creative Content Specialist @ Threading Change
November 1, 2024.
6-minute read.
The Haunted Lady, Or The Ghost In the Looking-Glass, 1863. Artist: John Tenniel
Media ID 14830628
© The Print Collector / Heritage-Images
Introduction
Fashion has long been celebrated as an art form—an outlet for creativity, self-expression, and individuality. Our clothing offers a canvas for the stories we carry within, transforming emotions, experiences, and aspirations into wearable statements. Yet, beneath the charming threads lurks a history marked by exploitation, suffering, and tragedy. The modern fashion industry is riddled with corruption, greed, and the abhorrent use of slave labor. As we continue to chase fast trends, the devastating consequences extend to the millions of workers who toil in unsafe conditions, producing the clothes we wear every day.
Historically, fashion has caused untold suffering. Crinoline skirts, once a symbol of grace and elegance, frequently ignited into flames, causing horrific injuries. In medieval Europe, shoes with exaggeratedly pointed toes left wearers with chronic foot deformities, while the cruel practice of foot binding shattered the bodies of young women in Asia for centuries. The corset, initially designed to enhance the feminine silhouette, ultimately became a prison, restricting breath and causing significant health issues. Though these examples may seem relics of a distant past, they serve as a chilling reminder of the lengths humanity has gone to in the name of style—pushing the limits of the human body for fleeting trends.
This article delves into both historical and modern instances of exploitation, spotlighting those who have labored—and continue to labor—behind the seams. Beneath the flow of luxurious fabrics lies an unsettling reality. As you explore the five cases below, you’ll encounter the ongoing consequences of an industry that not only poisons nature and professions but also devastates human lives.
Unnatural Nature
Flocks of Death
Flo Tuckfield wearing a hat featuring a large plume of feathers, 1910s.
The 19th century was filled with wild, weird, and sometimes just vile trends.
Among the most troubling was the craze for adorning clothing with birds, which flourished from the 1860s until the First World War. Known as the millinery trade, this trend led to the slaughter of millions of birds to satisfy the demand for decorative fashion. Popular across North America, Europe, and Australia, the practice drew criticism even in its own time. A poignant 1887 ornithology publication condemned the trend, stating that women were "the indirect, but real, instigators of this slaughter," adding, "all that can be hoped for is that the freaks of feminine vanity may take some other and less harmful direction." A London auction reported selling in one week 6,000 birds of paradise, 5,000 Impeyan pheasants, 400,000 hummingbirds, and 360,000 feathered creatures from India.
The millinery trade sparked significant controversy, igniting some of the earliest humanitarian movements focused on animal protection. As demand for exotic feathers surged, it pushed certain bird species toward extinction. Ornithologists worldwide began observing the devastating effects of the trade, noting how adult birds were taken from their nests, leaving their young defenseless and doomed to perish. In response to the cruelty and unsustainability of the industry, Emily Williamson founded the Society for the Protection of Birds in London in 1889. She was later joined by Etta Lemon and Eliza Phillips, forming an all-women-led movement dedicated to safeguarding endangered bird populations. Their efforts bore fruit, earning the organization a Royal Charter in 1904. In 1921, the Importation of Plumage (Prohibition) Act was passed, marking a major victory in the fight to end the barbaric practice.
Poisoned by Profession
Image credit: National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) from USA - fur hat maker, 1938. Public domain.
Makers of Mercury Hats
The expression “Mad as a hatter” didn’t always refer to Johnny Deep.
In the 18th-century mercury became an essential component of the hat-making industry, especially in the treatment of animal pelts used to create felt hats. The chemical was valued for its ability to soften fur and bind it together, streamlining production and crafting the hats that were in high demand. Yet, the workers who handled mercury bore the brunt of its toxic effects.
Hatters often experienced severe symptoms from prolonged mercury exposure, including chronic nausea, cognitive decline, numbness in their hands and faces, difficulty walking, debilitating skin conditions, and tooth loss. While the hats’ wearers were initially protected by inner linings, the danger re-emerged once the lining wore thin, directly exposing them to the toxic substance.
The long-term effects of mercury poisoning became heartbreakingly apparent as countless hat-makers developed illnesses that ravaged their physical and mental health. The phrase "mad as a hatter" reflects the erratic behavior of these workers, slowly poisoned by the tools of their trade. Unknowingly sacrificing their well-being to meet society’s demand for stylish felt hats, these laborers became invisible casualties of a toxic industry. Even today, many of these vintage hats are treated with extreme caution—stored in special archive sections to prevent accidental exposure to the lingering toxicity of mercury.
Ticking Time Women
Radium, discovered in 1898 by Marie Curie, was a groundbreaking scientific achievement that earned her the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1911 when she successfully isolated pure radium. However, while her work revolutionized science, it also came at a personal cost—Curie succumbed to aplastic anemia in 1934, a condition linked to her prolonged exposure to radiation.
In the early 1910s, the United States Radium Corporation began producing glow-in-the-dark watches for the military, employing 4,000 workers across factories in the U.S. and Canada. Many of these workers—predominantly women—painted the tiny watch dials including their numbers by hand. To ensure precision, they were instructed to keep the tips of their brushes sharp by shaping them with their lips. Despite the company’s knowledge of radium’s dangers, the workers were told it was safe. Some even applied the glowing paint to their bodies for fun, captivated by its luminous effect.
By the 1920s, the women began to suffer from severe health issues, including bleeding gums, ulcers, and excruciating toothaches. Amelia "Mollie" Maggia was the first known victim, dying in 1922 from a hemorrhage—initially misdiagnosed as syphilis. As more workers fell ill, they began to voice concerns, but their claims were dismissed, and the company resisted acknowledging responsibility, fearing financial losses.
In 1925, the workers secured legal representation, and an independent study confirmed that radium exposure was indeed killing them from the inside out. After years of struggle, Catherine Wolfe Donohue successfully sued the company in 1938, marking a pivotal victory. Their case ultimately led to significant reforms, including the establishment of the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), ensuring greater protections for workers and setting a precedent for workplace safety standards.
A Price Too High: Humans Lost to Cut Costs
Children in textile factories: Underage, Overexploited
Photos of some of the machines from the Rosamond Woolen Mill (Almonte, Ontario) now housed in the Mississippi Valley Textile Museum next door.
The cotton mills of industrializing cities posed their own dangers—particularly for disabled children in the 18th century. Mills in North America and Europe often employed children with disabilities, not out of compassion, but because they were seen as cheap and expendable labor. Child labor laws did not take effect in Canada until the late 19th century, although most European countries had implemented similar protections by the mid-1870s. However, enforcing these laws was a different matter entirely .
Children working in textile mills faced hazardous conditions. They were often required to crawl under machines to clear jams or retrieve loose cotton, risking severe injuries such as lost fingers or limbs. The air inside the mills was filled with cotton dust, causing debilitating respiratory issues over time. Due to their small size and low societal status, disabled children were especially vulnerable, subjected to exhausting shifts with little regard for their safety or well-being .
The psychological toll on these children was immense. Overseers frequently punished them with physical violence if they worked too slowly or made mistakes. Breaks were rare, and accommodations for disabled children were nonexistent—only more difficult tasks with higher risks. The harsh treatment reflected the prejudices of the time, where disabled bodies were often seen as less valuable and disposable.
Tragically, child labor remains a global issue today. UNICEF reported in 2020 that 1 in 10 children worldwide were engaged in child labor, with boys at higher risk. This grim reality serves as a sobering reminder that child exploitation is not a relic of history but a continuing crisis.
Trapped, Trafficked, and Terrified
The American public’s relentless appetite for clothing has been a defining feature throughout the brief history of the United States. The cotton trade of the 18th and 19th centuries was more than just an economic force—it was built on the exploitation of enslaved people, particularly in the American South. According to the UN, over 15 million people were kidnapped from Africa and trafficked into slavery worldwide between the 15th and 19th centuries. The global demand for cotton fueled this inhumanity, with the fashion industry playing a pivotal role.
In the 1980s and 1990s, the United States became a hub for human trafficking, where victims were exploited in sweatshops. A notable case was the El Monte sweatshop raid in 1995, where 72 Thai nationals, primarily women, were trafficked and forced to work in appalling conditions. S&P had promised them in Thailand that they would be brought to America to work for three years, repaying a $5,000 fee that covered their transportation costs.
Instead of fair work, these individuals were confined in a fenced, razor-wired compound, enduring up to 16-hour shifts for as little as 69 cents an hour while producing garments for major brands such as Tomato and BUM International. After a three-year investigation, the sweatshop was raided, resulting in many victims gaining U.S. citizenship. The incident sparked labor law reforms, helped define modern trafficking, and pushed for stricter codes of conduct within the garment industry.
Understanding the deep connection between fashion and human suffering is crucial to recognizing its historical roots. Even more concerning is that modern slavery persists today. In G20 countries, an estimated $468 billion worth of imported garments are at risk of being produced under forced labor conditions.
Conclusion
The fashion industry has long been woven with threads of exploitation—from enslaved people forced to harvest cotton to workers poisoned by mercury or radium while crafting accessories. While clothing serves as an expression of our personal stories, it should not be stained by the unjust suffering of those who made it. Throughout history, fashion has often thrived at the expense of human lives, with marginalized groups bearing the heaviest burden of this cruelty. As we continue to wear the garments and accessories that shape our identities, it is vital to recognize the hidden costs of both fashion’s past and present—and to advocate for a more ethical future, where no one’s well-being is sacrificed for the sake of style.
If reading this article has been difficult, we understand and empathize. Confronting the darker corners of history and the hardships endured by those who came before us can be upsetting. However, it is our shared responsibility to build a future where fashion no longer exploits or harms—and where beauty and creativity are never born from suffering.
Edited by: Luiza Giocondo Teixeira, Communications & Engagement Director @ Threading Change
Sara McQuaid
Sara is a writer and teacher currently working in Montreal, Quebec. She has a Honours Bachelor degree in History from Trent University and a Master's Degree in History from KU Leuven, focusing on women's history. Her passion for understanding contemporary challenges and love of fashion has inspired her to shift into the sustainable industry. She hopes to shape history by helping to change the future of fashion into one that is fossil-free and equitable.
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