Written by Isabella Hamilton, Communications Assistant @ Threading Change

December 19th, 2024.

5-minute read.

At some point, we've all bought something, worn it once or twice, and then let it sit in the back of our closet. But what if there was a way to give it a second life without wearing it ourselves? Clothing rental has grown in popularity in recent years, fueled by the desire to shop more sustainably, rediscover forgotten pieces, or even make a little extra money.

What does renting fashion mean?

Rental fashion is a crucial component of circular fashion. By renting out clothing for a fraction of its original cost, consumers can experiment with different styles without contributing to fast fashion. Companies such as Rent the Runway and Nuuly allow consumers to rent items ranging from gowns to earrings for 4-8 days. The items are shipped to customers, and the company handles maintenance and cleaning so they can be rented again. In theory, renting fashion is a great way to curb consumption and keep items in circulation, preventing them from ending up in landfills or being incinerated.

However, the rental market has been slow to gain traction. According to a report by ThredUp, an online consignment and thrift store, the average person is expected to spend less than 1% of their apparel budget on rentals by 2030. Currently valued at $1.9 billion, the rental clothing market is projected to grow to $2.33 billion by 2030.

*Rent the Runway flagship store in New York City.*

What is the advantage of renting clothing?

Rental fashion has grown in popularity, partly because of the identifiable environmental benefits of renting clothes instead of purchasing new ones. Additionally, renting clothing is cost-effective and challenges the fast-paced trend cycle.

Environmental Benefits

Renting clothing extends the lifespan of a garment by keeping it in circulation. Since it is an alternative to purchasing new, it saves 24% of the water used to create a new garment, 6% of the energy costs, and 3% of the carbon emissions. Extending the lifespan of a garment by just 9 months has also been shown to cut the cost of resources used to supply and dispose of clothing by 20%.

Cost-Effective

Renting clothing is also a cost-effective option for consumers, who are often forced to choose between a high-quality, expensive item or a lower-quality, cheaper one— a dilemma perpetuated by the fast fashion industry. Rental fashion challenges this status quo by allowing consumers to rent high-quality pieces for a fraction of the original price. Some rental companies even offer monthly memberships, typically ranging from $50 to $100, which allow consumers to select a set number of pieces per month to wear. Additionally, companies like Rent the Runway offer members the option to purchase clothing they love at a discounted price. This approach gives consumers a “trial run” experience, enabling them to enjoy the pieces before deciding whether to invest in them long-term.

Trend Cycle

Renting fashion offers a unique way to challenge the environmental impact of the trend cycle. In the cycle of fast fashion, consumers often buy clothing that is worn only 7-10 times before being discarded, typically because it goes out of style or is made from cheap materials that don’t last. Rental fashion, on the other hand, allows consumers to participate in the trend cycle and wear clothing a limited number of times, without directly contributing to its disposal. Furthermore, rental companies may prioritize investing in timeless pieces that can be rented out repeatedly, helping to extend their lifecycle and reduce waste.

“Renting clothing is also a cost-effective option for consumers, who are often forced to choose between a high-quality, expensive item or a lower-quality, cheaper one— a dilemma perpetuated by the fast fashion industry.”

*Circular Fashion Economy diagram from @TheSustainableFashionForum*

What are the drawbacks of renting fashion?

The environmental benefits of renting fashion, along with the costs saved and the ability to shop a wide range of styles make this practice especially enticing. However, no practice is perfect, and there are several drawbacks that must be recognized.

Environmental Costs

Many of the environmental challenges associated with renting fashion stem from transportation costs and the cleaning process between rentals. A study published in an environmental peer-reviewed journal stated that clothing rental generates significantly higher greenhouse gas emissions compared to resale or recycling. While renting helps conserve water by reducing the need for new products, a considerable amount of energy and water is still required to clean each item before it is rented again. Dry cleaning, often using perchloroethylene, can be harmful to aquatic life if improperly disposed of. Additionally, the packaging required for shipping contributes to environmental impact.

Some rental companies are working to mitigate these effects by opting for reusable, compostable, or recyclable packaging. Rent the Runway, for instance, has committed to diverting 90% of waste from their warehouse operations from landfills by 2030, though their website does not provide specific details on how this will be achieved. While there will always be some environmental impact tied to consuming fashion, the rental industry, marketed as a sustainable solution, still has significant room for improvement in terms of minimizing its ecological footprint.

Greenwashing

Renting fashion still encourages and relies on consumption. The most effective way to reduce environmental harm is to reduce consumption all together. With this being said, could rental fashion be viewed as a form of greenwashing? Greenwashing is defined as the “act of making false or misleading statements about the environmental benefits of a product or practice.” The responsibility to avoid greenwashing in marketing strategies falls on the rental company itself, and it is important to be transparent to the consumer when it comes to the drawbacks of renting fashion. It cannot be viewed as a one-size-fits-all approach to solving the environmental crisis caused by fashion.

Lack of Extended Sizing

Shopping methods like thrifting, reselling, or renting have long been criticized for lacking availability in extended sizing. This issue is often attributed to a historical emphasis on straight sizing, higher production costs for extended sizes, and the slower evolution of the fashion industry to meet diverse body types. However, there are several rental companies that do carry extended sizing, such as Gwynnie Bee, Switch Fix, Nuuly, and Short Story.

For clothing rental to become a more viable solution to the waste crisis, it must be accessible to everyone. Expanding size availability ensures that consumers can make sustainable choices without sacrificing fit or personal style. This inclusivity allows people to wear clothes they feel good in while also supporting a more environmentally responsible fashion industry.

Rental fashion has the potential to significantly transform the fashion industry by promoting circularity and redefining the end-of-life of clothing. However, it faces numerous challenges to mass adoption, such as environmental costs, potential greenwashing, and a lack of extended sizing options. While renting clothing is undoubtedly a more sustainable option than discarding it, it is not a one-size-fits-all solution. As conscious consumers, we must continually question the solutions presented to us and remain open to changing and adapting our habits for the sake of a more sustainable future.

References

Chislett, T. (2021). How sustainable is rental fashion?. Fashion Revolution. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/rental-fashion-vs-throwing-away/

Haghighat, Y. (2024, February 20). Plus, extended, and straight sizes: What’s the difference? Miik. https://www.miik.ca/blogs/news/plus-extended-and-straight-sizes-whats-the-difference

Lin, A. (2024, March 29). Driven to Shop: The Psychology of Fast Fashion. Earth Day. https://www.earthday.org/driven-to-shop-the-psychology-of-fast-fashion/

Lindwall, C. (2023, February 9). What is greenwashing?. National Resources Defense Council. https://www.nrdc.org/stories/what-greenwashing

McDowell, M. (2021, July 13). Don’t call it rental: Inside the rebrand for Fashion. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/dont-call-it-rental-inside-the-rebrand-for-fashion

McDowell, M. (2024, March 5). Fashion rental’s make-or-break year. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/technology/fashion-rentals-make-or-break-year#:~:text=While%20both%20%E2%80%9Ccircular%E2%80%9D%20models%20require,2030%2C%20says%20Grand%20View%20Research.

Reducing Worker Exposure to Perchloroethylene (PERC) in Dry Cleaning . Occupational Safety and Health Administration. (2005). https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/osha3253.pdf

Taylor, E. (2024, April 5). How Eco-Friendly Is Clothing Rental?. Remake. https://remake.world/stories/style/how-eco-friendly-is-clothing-rental/

Edited by: Luiza Giocondo Teixeira, Communications & Engagement Director @ Threading Change

Renting Fashion: Is It Really Sustainable?

The Flaxmobile Project: Sowing Seeds of Change Across Atlantic Canada​​

The Flaxmobile Project: Sowing Seeds of Change Across Atlantic Canada