Chasing Gold, Ignoring Green: The Olympics and Fashion's Sustainability Gap
Written by Sara McQuaid, Creative Content Specialist @ Threading Change
August 12th, 2024.
7-minute read.
The Olympics are not just a major cultural event; their influence extends far beyond the stadiums and mountains. While the games began over 3,000 years ago, the modern edition has been held every four years since 1896, when the International Olympic Committee (IOC) was founded in Athens.
As the world gathers to cheer on its athletes, we must also find ways to celebrate incredible feats of sustainability. Or, address the empty spaces on podiums where opportunities for sustainability were missed. The games set important trends in the sports world, highlighting the need for environmentally responsible practices. The Paris 2024 Summer Olympic Games have been praised as one of the greenest yet, with 95% of events being hosted in already-built venues and significant efforts made to reduce CO2 emissions.
Each edition of the Olympics aims to reach the top of the sustainability podium. In 1996, the Olympic Charter was updated to include a mandate for environmentally responsible games, as the IOC recognized the need for sustainability. The 2024 games mark a significant moment where the sports and fashion worlds collide in the heart of the fashion industry. Paris provides a unique stage along the banks of the Seine to showcase sustainability accomplishments and analyze the persisting gaps. While the games strive to win gold in sustainability, they are still out of the grasp of achieving top marks.
Sustainability, Clothing and the Olympics
Pont Alexandre III: A symbol of grandeur, momentum, and finery—a bridge between the Olympics and the rest of Paris. The clothing athletes wear serves a similar purpose: it connects the viewers and the athletes. Most of us cannot run 100 meters in under 10 seconds (although the speed I reach when I see my cat pawing at the forbidden plant is pretty close), but we can partake in wearing Olympic apparel. Who could forget the iconic red Vancouver mittens from 2010? I still have mine 14 years later, and they continue to shield me from bitter winters. Olympic apparel unites us as global viewers, creating a shared experience that transcends borders.
Fashion should be a celebratory part of the Olympics, but it is currently a significant obstacle to sustainability. The IOC is transparent in publishing its commitment to sustainability, stating: “The IOC implements a responsible procurement approach by which the sourcing of its products and services is carried out with environmental, social, and ethical considerations in mind.” Yet, partnerships and actions carried out by the current host city often undermine this statement. It is worth noting that the IOC and the host city are different entities and do not always work in tandem. This disconnect needs to be addressed, as the IOC must exercise greater control over the host city's actions to truly support a sustainable mandate.
Let’s explore some of the current issues facing the Olympics in greater detail and potential solutions.
Policing of Women’s Rights to Wear the Hijab
Earlier this year, on International Women’s Day (March 8th, 2024), the Olympics announced that, for the first time, there would be complete gender equality in the games, with a 50:50 ratio of men and women competing. This milestone was designed to highlight the progress made in women’s suffrage. A primary example of this celebration is the marathon route, inspired by the Women’s March of 1789 when women walked from Paris to Versailles to protest food shortages. Efforts were also made to ensure balanced scheduling, allowing journalists to interview both genders equally and provide adequate media coverage. Nancy Lee, the IOC Gender Equality Advisor, remarked: “It’s important because alternating events between men and women illustrates fairness and confronts the myth that women’s sport is less important.”
However, despite being in the spotlight, women do not have complete autonomy over what they wear, breaking SDG #5: Equality for all women and girls. The hijab and other female head coverings have been banned for events such as football, basketball, and volleyball, including youth and amateur events. Since 1905, France has upheld the separation of church and state to ensure religious institutions do not influence governmental affairs and that the state remains neutral in matters of faith. However, the 2024 ban on female hijabs removes autonomy from women, forcing them to choose between their freedom, comfort, and choice, and their desire to compete in a sport they have trained for years to excel in.
You can read more here from Amnesty International on the bans and what Muslim women have reported.
Costumes Over Comfort: The Gender Divide in Sports Uniforms
What athletes can wear has raised the question: “Equality? What equality?” In April 2024, Nike unveiled their women’s track uniform for the upcoming games, and it was immediately criticized for its revealing design. While the men’s suits are functional and modest, the women’s suits featured uncomfortable high lines in the groin area, which are not ideal for competitors. Athletes flocked to social media to express their frustration, citing that these designs feel more like costumes than uniforms, and calling for more practical and respectful options. One user commented: “This mannequin is standing still and everything’s showing… imagine MID FLIGHT 😭”
Nike attempted to curb the backlash but failed. They claimed that what they presented was merely a preview and that athletes have the option to wear what they want. However, consumers retaliated, questioning why the company chose to reveal these impractical uniforms in the first place. Lauren Fleshman, author of Good for a Girl: A Woman Running in a Man’s World and American national running champion, attributes this focus on revealing and impractical sports attire to financial incentives and a predominantly male-driven perspective. She explained, “In part because we think that’s what nets us the most financial gain from sponsors or NIL (name, image, likeness) opportunities, most of which are handed out by powerful men or people looking at it through a male gaze. But women are breaking records with ratings in sports where you don’t have to wear essentially a bathing suit to perform.” Her insights highlight the pressure on female athletes to conform to these upsetting standards out of fear of risking sponsorships, when success should be based entirely on athletic merit rather than the clothes that adorn their bodies.
Problematic Partnerships
The Olympics are giving platforms to companies under scrutiny for labor violations and environmental malpractices, such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Nike. In their sustainability plan, the IOC has outlined that all products associated with the games will be sourced from companies with: “Working conditions across the supply chains comply with applicable local, regional, and national legislation and international agreements and protocols.” However, from a fashion and clothing standpoint, there is significant oversight in selecting the companies that will produce the uniforms used in the games. This oversight fails to address the rights of the garment workers who are at the forefront of bringing these iconic pieces of clothing to the world's stage. The report also neglects critical issues such as the environmental impact of textile production, the importance of recycling uniforms, and the fair treatment and compensation of garment workers. This gap highlights a significant discrepancy between the Olympics' sustainability commitments and their actual practices, particularly in the fashion and textile industry.
Moët Hennessy and Louis Vuitton (LVMH) were chosen to reflect a bridge between sports and fashion, with a rumored $166 million deal in the works for the sponsorship, citing the feelings of passion as the glue for this partnership. LVMH is a multinational conglomerate luxury goods producer with a portfolio including Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Dior, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Celine, and Sephora. Although LVMH is a massive French icon synonymous with luxury fashion, the malpractices of the company must be addressed. On February 10th, 2022, LV workers at three factories across France walked out in protest, citing low wages, last-minute scheduling changes, and working hours that made procuring child care extremely difficult. The walkouts came after several years of the company posting record-breaking profits. Good on You has ranked the company as “Not Good Enough” on their labor policies, stating that the company received 21-30% in their Fashion Transparency Index. Dior, another major Olympic partner, has also come under scrutiny for possible violations of the consumer code and falsifying testimonies about the conditions of their garment shops, underpaying workers, and forcing them to work long hours.
Lulucoal
Team Canada has partnered with fast fashion athleisure giant Lululemon to produce uniforms for Olympians, a collaboration that will continue through the 2028 Los Angeles Games. The brand excelled in creating uniforms that accommodate the diverse needs of all athletes, including specialized pieces for Paralympians in wheelchairs, ensuring accessibility and comfort.
However, this partnership raises serious ethical concerns. Lululemon's blatant violations of the UN’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) starkly contradict the mandate set by the IOC. In 2019, The Guardian exposed the appalling conditions faced by Bangladeshi workers at Youngone Corporation factories, which supply Lululemon. Female factory workers reported being routinely subjected to verbal abuse, with managers calling them "whores," "sluts," and "prostitutes." They also described being forced to work while sick, pressured into overtime to meet quotas, and facing verbal and physical abuse if they left work early or broke any rules.
These workers earn an average of £85 per month, while a single pair of Lululemon's Olympic edition leggings sells for £55. Additionally, Stand.Earth has launched a campaign to expose Lululemon’s greenwashing, highlighting an 83% increase in the brand’s greenhouse gas emissions between 2019 and 2021, reliance on coal-powered factories, and the use of unrecyclable materials in its products. These actions blatantly violate several UN SDG goals, including Goal 3: Good Health and Well-being, Goal 5: Gender Equality, Goal 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth, and Goal 13: Climate Action.
Lululemon’s disregard for human rights and environmental sustainability in pursuit of profit should not be overlooked. This undermines the Olympic spirit rooted in ethical responsibility and sustainability. While we celebrate our athletes on the global stage, we must also hold companies accountable to ensure that the pursuit of athletic excellence does not come at the expense of workers' rights and the health of our planet.
From Tradition to Innovation: The Future of Olympic Uniforms
The Olympics don’t have to be a sustainability disaster. Amidst the controversies, there are ample opportunities to celebrate culture, sports, and fashion without compromising athletes' performance or the environment. For instance, the Mongolian Olympic uniforms are an intricate tribute to traditional craftsmanship, blending contemporary design with cultural beauty. This presents a compelling case for addressing gaps in global uniform practices: why can't North American uniforms reflect Indigenous cultures? By incorporating Indigenous designs and craftsmanship, these uniforms could honor rich histories, diverse cultures, and promote awareness of circular and local economies. Such designs would elevate appreciation for textile craftsmanship and global design beyond the Olympic stadiums.
To drive meaningful change, we must use our voices and advocate for legislation and transparency in how all suppliers provide materials. We are going for gold in patience, but the podium will sink into the Seine before we can truly achieve an equitable future. Contracts for the Olympics are established years in advance, providing channels to demonstrate demand for ethical practices. Consider asking for the following:
Athletes' freedom to practice their personal beliefs.
Adherence to labor and sustainability practices by all organizations and companies associated with the IOC to maintain their contracts.
Production of all Olympic uniforms from sustainable materials with recycling options to support a circular economy.
Use the following template to voice your concerns to: outfitting@olympic.ca and sustainability@olympic.org.
Together, we can transform the Olympics into an event that honors heritage, the environment, and exceptional athleticism without compromise. By embracing sustainable practices, the Olympic Games can genuinely reflect their commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals and creating carbon-neutral games. Let’s create a unified event that champions both athletic greatness and the wellbeing of our planet and its diverse communities.
Edited by: Luiza Giocondo Teixeira, Communications & Engagement Director @ Threading Change
Sara McQuaid
Sara is a writer and teacher currently working in Montreal, Quebec. She has a Honours Bachelor degree in History from Trent University and a Master's Degree in History from KU Leuven, focusing on women's history. Her passion for understanding contemporary challenges and love of fashion has inspired her to shift into the sustainable industry. She hopes to shape history by helping to change the future of fashion into one that is fossil-free and equitable.
Works Cited
"Dior and Armani under investigation for exploiting workers at 'Chinese factories' in Italy." Le Monde. July 17, 2024. https://www.lemonde.fr/en/europe/article/2024/07/17Dior%20and%20Armani%20under%20investigation%20for%20exploiting%20workers%20at%20'Chinese%20factories'%20in%20Italy/dior-and-armani-under-investigation-for-exploiting-workers-at-chinese-factories-in-italy_6687795_143.html.
"Factory workers who make Lululemon leggings say they're beaten, humiliated, and earn as little as $106 per month, a new report says." Amanda Krause. Business Insider, Oct 14, 2019, 5:35 PM EDT.
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"Lululemon earns C- in our 2023 Fossil Free Fashion scorecard." Stand.Earth.
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"LVMH strikes Paris Olympic Games sponsorship deal." Reuters. July 24, 2023. https://www.reuters.com/world/europe/lvmh-strikes-paris-olympic-games-sponsorship-deal-2023-07-24/.
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"VIOLATIONS OF MUSLIM WOMEN’S AND GIRLS’ HUMAN RIGHTS THROUGH HIJAB BANS IN SPORTS IN FRANCE." Amnesty International. https://www.amnesty.org/en/documents/eur21/8195/2024/en/.
"Why Nike's new Olympic track uniform for women is stirring controversy." NPR. April 15, 2024. https://www.npr.org/2024/04/15/1244773342/nike-team-usa-women-uniform-revealing-olympics#:~:text=submenu%20for%20Music-,Nike%27s%20Olympic%20track%20uniform%20reignites%20concerns%20over%20sexism%20in%20athlete,uncomfortable%2C%20revealing%20%E2%80%94%20and%20problematic.
"Workers making £88 Lululemon leggings claim they are beaten." The Guardian, 2019.
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